Cold start

 
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leloups66
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 5:39 am    Post subject: Cold start Reply with quote
Series 3 petrol 2.25 litre
My cold start warning light has suddenly started to come on. Now I don't think it has anything to do with the choke. I can see no electrical connections to the carb or the choke cable. I think it is linked to the temperature sensor. It comes on when it gets hot. I have fitted a new solid state voltage stabiliser which means my petrol gauge gives me a reading somewhere near the truth. The temperature gauge seems low and when in the middle which is where it should be - I get the warning light. At higher revs it goes out, it flickers - question is
Am I running too hot?
Why the hell has it suddenly started working when before I have had the temperature gauge nudging the red zone ?
I have removed the mechanical fan and replaced it with an electrical one.
Change the sensor? Disconnect the sensor and ignore it.
How hot is my water , how hot should it be and how can I check it?
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Morning leloup66.
The switch on the choke cable for the cold start light is clamped to the cable close to where it exits the bulkhead in the engine bay. It works only when the choke is pulled out so you must have a short or earth problem.
The temperature gauge shoot read about on the N in the centre of the gauge if the thermostat is working. I've got an 82C thermostat and an electric fan and normally the temperature is just below the N but I think the voltage stabilizer is faulty.
. Alan Drover
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
See my post on this thread here:

http://www.thelandroverclub.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=71910&highlight=#71910

If your warning light isn't connected to the choke cable (ie to the correct choke switch clamped in the correct position on the cable) it isn't doing anything useful as it is supposed to do, ie warn you the choke control is still out. Like mine were, yours may be connected to the temp sender, in which case it may be telling you when the engine has reached operating temperature, but your temp gauge should do that anyway and you don't want a warning light on all the time you're driving after the engine's warmed up, so I'd disconnect it from there unless you want to use it in conjunction with a properly fitted and connected choke cable switch (which I didn't) Also, it may be shorting (earthing) if it's flickering or going on and off arbitrarily, especially if it's not connected properly to the choke cable - where are the wires meant to do that? (I'd be worrying as much about risk of electrical fire as overheating if I were you until I'd checked out the wiring) Anyway, whatever, this warning light is no use whatsoever as an indicator of overheating - you need a properly working temp gauge (including sender and voltage stabiliser) Then, if it shows engine temp above normal, you start looking at the coolant level, thermostat, air locks in the system, pressure cap, clogged rad, fan & belt, water pump etc Have fun!
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Isn't it connected to the otter switch on the head above the alternator? And does the light go off when the engine has reached temperature or the other way around?
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Some cylinder heads had the choke thermostat switch fitted at the front nearside above the alternator and some had a blanking plate. No change over details given and the choke warning switch that's clamped to the choke cable is part number FAM8881L.
. Alan Drover
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2017 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, sorry, when I referred to the temp sender in connection with the choke, I meant the choke thermostat switch (see the earlier thread I referred to) - long time since I disconnected mine - didn't mean to add to any confusion!
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 19, 2017 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Morning leloup66.
If the choke thermostat switch is on your cylinder head and the wires are connected then the light flashing could be a faulty switch. There could be a break in the wire causing the problem or the wire could have been disconnected and shorting.
If you've got the cable operated switch check the connections there.
. Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
My fault for the confusion there, hijacking this topic!

Mine is as below, the light does work usually flickers. I have noticed there is a slight break in the wire new the switch which could be causing this rather than it just staying on when the engine has reached temperature. I'll have a look at this once the engine is reassembled again.


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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
No, you reminded me the temp sender and choke thermostat switch were two different things (duh!)

If you have a choke thermostat switch connected, the choke light should only illuminate when the engine has reached its operating temperature and the choke is still out - and so needs to be pushed in - that's the point of it - but it can only do that in conjunction with a choke cable switch - connected on its own it will only tell you when you're at operating temperature, which a glance at your temp gauge should tell you anyway, and will then continue to be a distraction while you drive with the engine already warmed up and the choke pushed in. And when I say 'operating temperature' I mean that and above - it will continue to shine happily as you boil over - you need a temperature gauge. In my opinion the thermostat choke switch is useless and best disconnected - if the warning light doesn't come on as soon as you pull the choke out (which it won't if the engine is cold and the choke thermostat switch is working) how do you know the light is working at all and will come on when it needs to when the engine has warmed up? - the choke cable switch is very prone to coming off - even slightly knocked it can stop working - mine are tied on with cable ties but I still check they're still working properly every time after I've been checking clutch fluid level nearby. And, as I said in the other thread, I prefer to put the choke in gradually anyway as the engine warms, not in one go when it's fully warmed up, so I want a constant reminder my choke's out. Broken wires are bad news in any circumstances and easily fixed, but even easier is removing them altogether if they're not needed!
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
As soon as I'm on the move I push the choke right in. My choke warning light doesn't work as I haven't got round to repairing the broken earth wire.
. Alan Drover
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
If you can push your choke all the way in as soon as you're moving without stalling, you probably don't need a choke warning light. I could probably do the same if it wasn't for the fact that here in Leicester as soon as I leave home I have to negotiate about 200 traffic lights before I reach 'open country', not to mention twice that number of other road users more interested in their 'smart' phones than they are the road.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The Land Rover is the only vehicle I've owned that has a choke warning light.
. Alan Drover
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 20, 2017 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Me too, but then, come to think of it, I can't remember the last mere car I drove that actually had a manual choke. Besides, it's a pretty colour, and I do like to keep all my bells and whistles working if poss!
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Don't think I'm going to buy the choke cable switch, more costly than expected.

I agree with Geoff, rather like the orange light - some interior lighting for the winter months.
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 23, 2017 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, they are a silly price (that's why I 'transferred' mine from my old Landie when I sold it to my new that needed one Embarassed )
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