Weber carb adjustment

 
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Nick C
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Joined: 03 Apr 2018
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Location: Hampshire

PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 6:20 pm    Post subject: Weber carb adjustment Reply with quote
I had a play with adjusting the carb on my 109 today. The mixture screw was about 2 turns out, which seems about right, but the idle screw was a long way out - about 5-6 turns if I counted right. Turning it to the 1.5 turns that the internet recommended made it idle very slowly - what should the idle speed be?

Is it best to wait until the engine is fully up to temperature, or just warm enough to run without choke?

I've checked the plug and points gaps, but not yet have the timing - any suggestions for how to do so without a strobe?

Cheers,

Nick
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 13, 2018 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Evening Nick.
Set the tickover so that the ignition light is out about 750rpm after timing the engine.
This is how I timed my engine. In your case check the points gap first 15thou. Get the engine to working temperature then let it run at a slow tickover. Disconnect the vacuum advance pipe from the distributor then slacken the distributor clamp bolt. Turn the distributor clockwise until the engine falters then back it off until the tickover just starts to slow down. Tighten the clamp bolt and reconnect the vacuum advance pipe. Adjust the tickover as necessary then road test. Mine runs extremely well after I timed it that way and that was about 6 or so years ago and hasn't needed any adjustment but it has electronic ignition fitted. Disregard the static timing figures as these have no bearing using modern fuel. Initially I left the tickover so slow that the ignition light came on but I speeded it up to extinguish the light. Give it a road test to check for any pinking (mine didn't) and if you're happy with it then leave it be.
Forget strobes etc this is how my mates and I timed our vehicles over 50 years ago as impoverished new owners and before the advent of timing aids and it worked as it takes into account wear.
As we are not far apart we could meet if you have any problems.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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Nick C
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks Alan,

I had a play with it yesterday, though I think it was fairly well set up before as I ended up with almost the same dizzy position!

Cheers

Nick
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Nick, it's best to mark the position of the distributor in relation to the block so you know where it goes if you have to remove it.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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