Front crankshaft oil seal/poor running
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Have you checked the pipe at the lifter pump? Is the lifter pump and is it the one with a glass bowl? That type has been superseded by the same pump as used on Tdi engines and it's far better.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 11:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Alan Drover wrote:
Have you checked the pipe at the lifter pump? Is the lifter pump and is it the one with a glass bowl? That type has been superseded by the same pump as used on Tdi engines and it's far better.


Nope, Iíve fitted a new lift pump which is the one with the glass bowl. It appears to be working fine however noticed already there is some sediment in the bowl so beginning to think possibly there is a blockage or build up somewhere near the tank.

Havenít seen the new tdi ones, do these fit with crankcase or operate different?
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 10, 2018 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Morning Ash.
I got fed up with the poor quality of the pattern parts glass bowl lifter pumps so I went to a main dealer. Land Rover no longer use the glass bowl ones so I got a Tdi one. It comes with a couple of rubber pipes to connect to the existing ones. It fits in the same place and works the same except it's much better.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 12, 2018 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Cleaned the glass bowl from any sediment and checked the feeder/return pipe which appears worse for wear so have ordered a replacement.

It now seems to be running extra rich and still lumpy, did some minor adjustments to the mixture screw bit donít appear to have a massive effect. They where only minor mind.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 13, 2018 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Morning Ash.
Remove the air filter hose and check the choke flap is not sticking partially shut.
I know you had the carburettor rebuilt recently and that may be the cause. Zeniths are notoriously difficult to rebuild as in some cases separating the top part can result in distortion resulting in an air leak which causes the mixture to be rich. I spent a fortune over a number of years getting my Zeniths restored and the first one done about 9 years ago is still on the Land Rover and less than a quarter of a turn on the mixture screw upsets the running even after all that time. Last year's MOT showed the emissions were 0.83% CO (up to 4.5% allowed) and 200 hydrocarbons (up to 1200 allowed.) If you can't get it to run properly then go back to the rebuilder and tell him the problem.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Apologise for the delay, been away.

Quick update the rich running may of been caused by me as I might of put to much lead additive in. Filled it up with less additive and seems to of settled itself.

Also changed all the fuel hoses, including the feed pipe from the tank and fitted a new inline filter.

So, surprise surprise a new problem has appeared... my landy no wants to cut out when coming to a halt e.g. a traffic lights and seems to splutter at low revs in a higher gear.

Any ideas? Still feel there is a feuling problem as the inline filter empties itself quite quickly. Or possible a blockage in the carb.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ash, daft question but have you fitted the new fuel filter the right way? There are arrows indicating the direction of flow.
If OK, what about the lifter pump?
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Not at all, mine doesnít have arrows itís has a IN and a OUT so think it was as it should. Iíve just fitted another different type of filter (with arrow) and still having the same problems.

Squirted some WD40 around the carb to see if there was any air leaks but wasnít 100% sure if there was a change in the engine noise. Presume Iím looking to see if it revs up?

Took it over to the shops and cut out at the lights, so Iíve had to keep the revs up. Seems to when Iím moving coming to a halt it cuts out. Doesnít cut out when idle or coming from idle.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ash, does it cut out when say coming to a halt or going round a bend? When I bought my Land Rover in 1986 it developed a cutting out fault which turned out to be the coil. By pure luck I happened to touch it and it was so hot I couldn't keep my hand on it and replacement cured the problem. It was caused by the coil shorting out internally by moving in a certain direction.
If the coil is the problem it must be replaced with one that has a 3 ohm impedance.
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1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Coming to a halt yes, not noticed it around corners and I've done some sharp turns. Its currently a 12 V LUCAS coil which I fitted over a year ago now. I do have a spare so might see if that changes anything.

Would this effect the running?

Another thing I forgot to mention was when idle the exhaust sort of blows (not constantly) with the engine dipping it and out. Could do we videoing it really to explain it properly but itís sort of searching/dipping in and out.

I had a mate that came around and said the word of what it sounded like but can't remember what he said.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Try the spare coil first. I can't pick up any videos sent (don't know how to) Have you got points or electronic and have you got one of those black plastic rotor arms or one of the superior red ones? Is the carbon brush inside the distributor cap OK?
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Its a Lucas D25, its something i haven't really touched except replaced the rotor arm. Its still the original and unsure if anything else has been changed.

Attached link to pic below of the dizzy.
http://i.picasion.com/pic87/030e12403eb11103b3b1b772aa996876.gif
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Although Iím sure the hot weather isnít helping, could the issue with poor running be vapour lock?
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Check inside the cap for the condition of the carbon brush in the centre. It's worth checking the easy things first.
You said you overdosed it on unleaded additive. The ratio of additive to petrol is 1/1000th. I'm wondering if that is causing a problem but check the electrics and change the coil and report back.
Does it pull OK and what's the tickover like? Is it losing any coolant?
Another thing to check with the distributor is that twisting the rotor arm anti clockwise it should move a little then spring back by itself. This shows that the centrifugal advance is working.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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AJT4
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Location: Chester, Cheshire

PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well, changed the coil to my spare and has had no effect still cutting out when coming to a halt. I did notice in the inline filter some tiny sand looking rust sitting at the bottom but not much of it.

Had a look inside the dizzy, take it the carbon brush is the brass centre where the rotor arm sits on or somewhere else?

Think the additive is mostly mixed in now as it doesn't seem to running as rich and there's very little smoke if any coming out of the exhaust.

Seems to pull ok, just very splutter like every couple of turn overs and hunts at idle (when on low revs). If I turn the throttle screw in running the engine at higher revs seems to cure the issue. There doesn't appear to be any loss in coolant, bubbles or orange tan.

I've twisted the rotor arm (towards the bulkhead/way arrow is facing) and springs back by itself.
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