Driver's door letting water in due to rust

 
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whitehead1972
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Joined: 16 Sep 2018
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Location: Wanstead

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 7:27 pm    Post subject: Driver's door letting water in due to rust Reply with quote
Evening all. I have recently bought a 1972 Series 3 and have discovered that it has twice let water in during heavy rain. I understand that this is not unusual but think it may be caused by corrosion in the door. Where the window part bolts to the door there is lots of play, making it impossible for a good seal between the door and the rubber. I think it would be solvable with a new part - if they are available.
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Alan Drover
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Location: North West Hampshire

PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Evening whitehead 1972.
Yes, door tops are available from spares suppliers. They're unglazed so the club's plastic window channel is worth fitting. It's unlikely the bolts will undo easily and check the door bottom for corrosion where the top bolts to it.
I fitted Defender doors with wind up windows to mine but these doors are so easy to come by now although there were some at the Newbury sort out on September 30th last.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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Slow Progress
A Hopeless Case !
A Hopeless Case !


Joined: 25 Jan 2017
Posts: 208
Location: Derbyshire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Speaking of doors, does anyone know if you get the Ashtree galvanised doors:

1. You can fit the galv cappings to them?
2. If they will fit the club window channels?
3. You can get the rear door with the spare wheel carrier on it?
4. Is it better to have the spare wheel on the bonnet or the back door?



Lastly has anyone any experience of Ashtree?, and in particular their doors?
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New to Landy life...but now with bleeding knuckles!

1976 series 3 109" station wagon 6 cylinder.....the one which has a drink problem!
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Don't see why not - why don't you ask Ashtree? I've got a couple of unused rear side doors I bought second-hand on ebay that I believe are Ashtree - I've never fitted them but they look pretty good.

Spare wheel on the back door's a pain - hard to get at the door handle and destroys the hinges eventually. Also either obstructs the tow hitch or your rear view depending where the mounting is. I regard the mounting fixings there as purely defensive - gives something to be hit before whatever it is hits your door! Bonnet's ok if you're tall enough to see over it, don't mind looking at it all the time, are strong enough to heave it up there and down again, and to open the bonnet with it in place - and are careful not to knock the bonnet support when it's mounted there (if you want to live) (I would put a second prop in place if working there) In short, neither arrangement is exactly ideal. Now my kids are grown up and gone, I keep my spares (chained) flat on the rear floor.
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2 1981 Stage One 109 V8 Station Wagons
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Yule
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
My spare is up against the bulkhead in the back of the motor. If you want it externally then I suggest a separate wheel carrier on the rear door - it just swings out of the way before you open the read door - most suppliers do one; Bearmach, Paddocks etc
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Paul.

1975 200TDI Series 3 - Henry
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
That is where mine is but with the dished side against the bulkhead so I can store the tow rope, dog leads etc in the dish.
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Alan Drover.
1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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knappster
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Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 1942
Location: Gloucestershire

PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Iíve got my spare ratcheted against the centre bulkhead in the rear.

In response the the original question, reasonable second hand door tops are available although new pattern ones arenít expensive and you donít have the issue of removing rusted screws and fittings and you can either buy unglazed and build it yourself or buy one already done.
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Rich.

Owner of a 200Tdi 90 and a soon-to-be 200Tdi Series 3...
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knappster
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
An alternative is the early 110 door tops which are quite rare and expensive but made of aluminium or the likes of Rocky Mountain which again are aluminium and expensive.
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Rich.

Owner of a 200Tdi 90 and a soon-to-be 200Tdi Series 3...
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 08, 2019 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Used early 110/military all aluminium front door tops come up quite regularly on ebay. They tend to fetch around £100 each depending on condition. Occasionally there might be a crack somewhere in the aluminium but generally the frames remain in very good condition, but look out for the presence/absence of the rubber seal, fixing studs and, especially, locks - which are very expensive to replace if you can find them at all. New military door tops of this kind with all fittings occasionally surface from old military stock but tend to be about three times that much. I've never seen the glass for these door tops sold separately (different shape to standard Series 2/3) As well as the non-rusting frames, I like that both panes of glass slide open.
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