Hylomar sealant should it be used around carb?
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:08 pm    Post subject: Hylomar sealant should it be used around carb? Reply with quote
Hi all,

Whilst since I've been on here but quick question.

Should Hylomar or any sealant be used between the carb and adaptor and adaptor/spacer to manifold?

Or would this have a negative effect with the fuel vapours etc eroding away the sealant?

Thanks.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
No. The gaskets are sufficient.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks!
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
AJT4, forgot to say that the surfaces must be clean.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Spent some off the afternoon cleaning the surfaces, Iíve now got 4 zeniths so looking to do a swap from the one thatís currently fitted.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Iím still certain there is an air leak somewhere around the carb, would tappets have an effect on the mixture? E.g when the choke goes fully in the engine cuts out.
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BigJohn
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Your tappets won't affect the carb settings directly, although they should be set up correctly in any case. The same goes for the distributor timing.
It could be that your mixture setting is too lean. Try setting the carb for a higher than normal tickover speed and once it's up to temperature put the choke in. Now set the mixture to give you the highest tickover speed and then back it off slightly. Now slowly take your idle speed back down to a comfortable speed.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Tappets don't effect the mixture. It seems the mixture is too weak. How have you set the mixture screw? The usually way is to screw it right in (carefully, don't force it as the end is tapered) then unscrew 2 complete turns and start from there. That is how I set my rebuilt carburettor and once I got it right I haven't had to make any adjustment since and that was getting on for 10 years ago.
You could dribble oil around the carburettor manifold joints and the engine note will change if there's a leak anywhere. I know you had the carburettor rebuilt recently. Have you been able to get it running properly since? Does screwing the mixture screw in or out have any effect? Zeniths are notoriously difficult to rebuild and that's why I had all of mine rebuilt by BFS. Each one cost well into 3 figures for what is almost a remanufacture.
Big John's posting was posted while I was writing mine so I didn't read it until after I submitted mine.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2019 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks for your replies,

I have not yet set the new carb yet properly and is tomorrowís task hopefully. Just find it off Iím having the same problem twice although canít confirm, hopefully after I set the carb up properly tomorrow might work correctly.

Alan Drover, I did rebuild the carb myself a couple of months ago after finding a blockage and was working fine since until now. It is the carb you sent a over year ago or so which I had rebuilt and again when rebuilt worked like a treat. Iíve found the linkages now seem to get stuck and I feel itís lost some power. Fitted the new carb Iíve got and power has been returned just need to confirm by giving it a tune up and hopefully the choke issue will go away.

I do have another 2 zeniths which are I need off a rebuild and a Weber which is currently on a mates landy. The Weber also had the same issue more or less with the choke.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Morning AJT4.
Could be the accelerator pump sticking which could cause the linkage to stick and the lack of power. Have you got a fuel filter?
Is the distributor in good condition?
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thatís also what Iíve been thinking, dizzy is relatively new and I have a fuel filter but may give it another change. Noticed some sediment in the filter itself.
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BigJohn
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The accelerator pump is only there to stop the engine from bogging on sudden throttle full power operation. It gives an extra spurt of fuel when the throttle pedal is depressed suddenly. It will have no effect on sustained heavy engine loading or a gradual throttle position increase.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
....but it could be the reason why the linkage sticks.
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Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2019 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
It's worth checking the advance on the distributor. For the vacuum advance a simple test is to remove the cap, remove the vacuum advance pipe from the carburettor and suck hard on it. The base plate should move. For the centrifugal advance turn the rotor arm anticlockwise. The shaft should move a fraction and spring back when released.
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Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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AJT4
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2019 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks all for the posts, I've managed to now sort the issue by advancing the timing and taking some play out off the throttle linkages as some where worn which has helped loads.

Hopefully the fix will last as it runs very well now.
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