TDI200 Engine transplant but ...

 
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timmoore46
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:59 pm    Post subject: TDI200 Engine transplant but ... Reply with quote
Some years ago I put this into my series 3.

All has gone well but suddenly it stopped starting ! eeeekkk...

The starter motor spun the engine tound fine but even tho there was plenty of fuel ...

It would roll down a hill and start fine. A good local friend is a genius on such matters and within 10 minutes it was starting just fine.

At this point I realised I was a bit ignorant..

Now it seems there is a solenoid which goes clunk and that controls fuel flow into the fuel pump/injector thing...

So if its doesn't see +12V when the starter motor is working no fuel gets thru...and engine doesn't do anything...

The fix was to run a cable from the cable that is attached to the solenoid and I took it through to inside the cab to just below the steering column . Now there is two 3mm sockets to supply DC power to the cab and I just created a plug I can plug into the +12V socket and then try starting the engine in the ignition key twist...

So the qtestion is What exactly does the solenoid to to what part of the fuel injector system /

Any thoughts very welcome !!! I don't know what type pump is and what its called etc etc..

Many thanks for reading my ramble..


Tim
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Last edited by timmoore46 on Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:10 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Turning the ignition on activates the solenoid to allow fuel through and this applies when the starter motor is activated. Turning the ignition off switches off the solenoid and the fuel is shut off thus stopping the engine. There should be a 12 volt supply at the solenoid when the ignition switch is in the start position as well as the run position. As you said there isn't then it could be a faulty ignition switch.
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1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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timmoore46
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi Alan,


Many many thanks for replying....the last time I saw the side of the engine was before we lowered it into the vehicle many years ago *LOL*

Does the pump thing work reliably on the whole ? (guess it must do ! as I've made many journeys in it !

Are their any easy to get manuals on that engine ? or that male of fuel pump?

Greatly appreciate your response...

: ))

Tim
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks Tim.
If you do wire the solenoid to a separate switch don't use the dashboard sockets. They are permanently live and infused.
You would have to take the power supply from an ignition controlled supply and you would have to remember to switch it on to start and off to stop.
If the engine runs OK otherwise it's almost certainly an ignition switch fault.
The only source of information on the engine would be from a workshop manual for Defenders with that engine.
Presumably the ignition switch is a Series 3 and if it's combined with a steering lock then the barrel and lock mechanism are unobtainable but I believe the electrical contact assembly at the back still is. I'll look up the part number and let you know it. Best place to try is Dunsfold Land Rover.
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1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 14, 2018 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
How do the glow plugs switch on? Do you have to the the ignition switch to operate them?
Try and trace the solenoid power supply back to its source. Let me know these things and I'll get back to you.
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1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I don't have diesel engines but petrol V8s, but I have had both fail because of ignition switch faults - one died when running, the other annoyingly refused to start after I had been stopped on the Fosse Way in the middle of the night by the police for suspected sheep rustling! (after switching the engine off, was unable to restart as their tail lights disappeared in the distance - thank you very much for stopping me!) In both cases, squirting WD40 into the ignition cured the problem, apparently permanently. Just saying. But I do now keep a specially prepared length of wire to connect between those sockets and the fuse box to bypass the ignition as an emergency measure should the problem recur (it still needs the key to work, if anyone thinks that's an easy way to hotwire it - it's not) I don't know anything about diesel wiring and I don't suppose it's the same problem exactly, but old Series 3 ignitions can develop poor contacts from moisture and corrosion.
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Morning Tim.
Was the ignition switch changed when the engine was replaced or did you have a diesel engine originally?
The diesel ignition switch is different from the petrol as it has a glow plug heating position and in the case of Tdi engines a connection for the shut off solenoid which the Series 3 diesel switch doesn't have.
I reckon there's a fault in the switch as you had no problems up to now but try Geoff's idea of squirting WD40 in it. I use it and electrical switch cleaner as well.
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1975 SWB hardtop with a 2.5 petrol engine, overdrive, front disc brakes, parabolic springs, hand throttle, Defender doors and Wolf wheels.
Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.


Last edited by Alan Drover on Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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Alan Drover
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Did the sheep taste nice after you roasted it Geoff?
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Also a 1977 Stage 2 MGB GT.
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 15, 2018 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I was on my way to Cornwall to collect the tubeless rims and tyres that now adorn my trucks and which I'd just bought on ebay, driving through the night to avoid the traffic. Abducting Sean the Sheep was not part of the plan. There must be something about the Fosse (malign Roman ghosts?) - my other Stage 1 broke down further south on the Fosse on my way to one of those Soviet speed indoctrination sessions in Bristol - that was a loose connection on the coil and I managed to find it in time to make the brainwashing and keep my license, but t'was a mite stressful (Anyone else had to attend those things? - I'm a veteran of them - 'come the revolution', the monkey who held that one's the first person I'm going after Evil or Very Mad - never mind free speech, what about free thought? .. but I'm getting a little off-topic aren't I - sorry about the rant - sore subject to me)
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timmoore46
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The Failure to start from the ignition switch seems to have cured itselfat the moment. But I ran an extra lead terminated with a crock clip which I attached to the positive battery terminal and only did this at the moment I twisted the ignition key. That worked just fine. I was very careful to remove it immediately it started so it was only connected for about 2 seconds.

Many many thanks to everyone who responded to this thread.

A moderately happy Tim.

PS I have a problem with clamping the spare tyre to the bonnet, but I'll start another thread...
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Geoff2
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
An intermittent electrical fault suggests a bad contact somewhere. As previously mentioned, I suggest WD40/switch cleaner fluid as a (hopefully) preventive measure if it's not possible to locate and fix said bad contact directly, but keep that extra lead handy just in case!
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